Long ago in post 4 of underwater photography , i was planning on posting this article , yet i decided it was wiser if i explained the underwater cam system first , and we did that in parts 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , and now were here . Just to remind u guys of what we discussed under the topic of underwater shots :
1) Basic problems & solutions
2) A vid demonstrating the use of a wide angle lens and a red filter underwater
3) Hints for the innocent
4) Underwater housing systems
5) Housings in more detail
6) Ports
7) A video of the whole system put together
Maintaining underwater camera systemsby Mark Webster
Reproduced from
Underwater photographic equipment, whether you are a professional or simply looking for snapshots, requires a serious investment before you even start to take your pictures. In addition to absorbing all the technical details required to produce a good picture you must also learn how to look after your equipment to ensure that it functions correctly throughout its life and does not let you down at that crucial moment, probably when you have spent a mint on that tropical trip which places you alongside a whale shark, great white, mantis shrimp or whatever!
Water, particularly salt water, is an extremely hostile environment to take any type of mechanical equipment into. Although our amphibious cameras, housings and flash guns are designed to keep water out and operate under these harsh conditions they will not do so forever unless a little tender loving care is applied at regular intervals to keep control of that marine attrition. The some basic principles will apply to both totally mechanical cameras and housings as well as the latest auto focus models, although the hazards of even a minor flood for the latter are much more dangerous as water and electronics generally do not mix!
The best approach is to establish good basic procedures for "every dive" maintenance backed up with regular detailed attention and your camera system should then last you a lifetime. You may even want to plan more advanced servicing and. maintenance which is not as complicated as it may first appear. For those with slightly less confidence or time there are a number of specialist suppliers and service agents who will undertake those longer term complete overhauls.
Pre-Dive Preparations:
When planning to take your camera on a dive, be it a single day out or part of an extended trip, the first step is to ensure that you have enough time set aside to attend to the preparation of your equipment. More cameras and flash guns have been flooded by inadequate or rushed preparation than any "0" ring or structural failure. Even the experts and professionals ' flood their equipment and it is almost always due to something forgotten in the haste to get into the water to chase that special shot. So find a clean area, decide what lens and film combination is required for the dive and then commence a set of routine steps to prepare the camera system for the water. Listed below is a suggested procedure which should help to establish your own requirements:
o Remove the main "0" rings from the back plate (amphibious camera or housing) and lens or port. Clean the "0" ring seats thoroughly with a cotton bud or the edge of a paper kitchen towel. Now clean each "0" ring by wiping it with a paper kitchen towel and then regrease each one. Many people make the common mistake of assuming that more silicone grease on the "0" ring will produce a better seal. Wrongi This will only attract more in the way of dirt and debris ? the "0" ring should only be lubricated lightly until it shines by putting a dab of grease between you thumb and forefinger and then gripping the "0" ring as you pull it through. Replace the "0" rings and, if using a housing, install the camera and connect the hot shoe.
o Prepare your flash gun or flash housing in the same way, remembering to fit fresh batteries if necessary.
o Before loading a film in the camera, connect up your flash gun, having cleaned and greased the connector "0" ring, and test fire it. This way if you have a malfunction you will not unnecessarily waste film as you test the system. If you have a TTL flash system it is wise to also check that this is functioning correctly at this point. This is simply done by setting the flash and camera to TTL, setting the lens to a medium aperture (say f8 or f11) and pointing the gun straight into the lens from 15-20cm. When the flash is fired from this range then the TTL indicator on the gun or in the viewfinder should indicate that the shot was OK and TTL has functioned correctly. The flash should also recycle almost immediately indicating that it has not fired on full power and that TTL control has functioned.
o Once you are happy with the flash you can then load your film and check it is advancing correctly - also conf irm you have the correct film speed selected on the cameral Close up the camera back or fit the back plate of your housing with a final check that the "0" is clean and seats properly as you close up and latch.
o Now you are ready to assemble the remainder of the system. Connect flash arms, base plates, aiming torches etc. and check their functions. give the lens or port a final polish and the system should be ready for the water.
Post Dive Maintenance:With the correct preparation your camera system should have survived the dive intact and dry inside. However, it is after the dive some of the greatest potential damage can occur as the water evaporates and leaves behind salt crystals which will cause corrosion, dry out "0" rings and eventually cause leaks if not properly washed off. This is particularly important if you are diving in tropical water with a high salinity, such as the Red Sea, where the water will evaporate quickly leaving large crystals which are especially invasive.
The best treatment is to submerge the system totally in luke warm fresh water, before the salt water dries, and let it soak for a while and then work all the controls to ensure that the salt water is fully flushed out. You can then finish off with ageneral rinse under running water before leaving the system to dry. If soaking is not immediately available then a quick rinse under running water will suffice in the interim, but the system should be soaked when the opportunity crises. If you are on an extended trip going through this operation after each dive it is still worthwhile soaking all your equipment once again when you return home as the water in the rinse buckets at dive centres or on live aboards quickly becomes contaminated with salt from other equipment. Between dives prepare your camera system as described above.
This above was just part of the article , further maintenance and long term maintenance
Photos from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Uwanemonefish.jpg ,
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